“But the beauty is in the walking — we are betrayed by destinations.”
― Gwyn Thomas
Total Km hiked: 900
Days 47- 53: (Los Arcos, Pencacerrada, Zambana, Miranda de Ebro, Fontecha, Villanueva de Valdegovia)
Contemplating the rain and hoping Barry will make the tea!- A welcome rest under the porch of a monastery in the Sierra de Codes.
As we left the pilgrim town of Los Arcos at the beginning of Week 7, we also left behind the plains of Navarra and entered a new zone of landscape, climate and culture. We started climbing almost immediately into the Sierra de Codes, and were soon engulfed by the verdure of the Basque forests with their low cloud and wraith-like mists. After weeks in semi-arid moutains, the moisture, the abundant, luminous ‘green-ness’ of everything was soft on the skin and the senses. It is always satisfying to experience these transitions of geography on a long distance hike because, among other things, it confirms the reality of distance covered, which can otherwise seem unreal. There is also a thrill in traversing the vastness of geographies with something so diminutive as the human body.
The price to pay for such verdure though was rain and damp- damp feet, soggy socks, a sopping wet tent in the morning and a general struggle to keep our kit clean, dry and useable. Of all things, I find waking up to a damp/wet morning most demotivating. Not just leaving the snug depths of my sleeping bag, but the practical difficulty of getting packed up in long, wet grass- getting wet shoes and socks before breakfast never seems a good start to the day! So it was a week of dodging rain in church porches, barns and bus shelters: it was frustrating at times but more often than not, a welcome respite from the busy business of hiking and increasingly aching joints. Sheltering under the portico of a town hall building or the cloister of a monastery, we’d set the tea on to boil, pile our warm layers on and throw our foam mats on the flagstones. Safe from the curtains of rain driving in across the mountains, there was a precious sense of ‘nothing to do’, a rare repose when we could read, dunk chocolate digestives or just rest…..and secretly hope that the rain would last a little longer.
Being so close to the Camino still, we were stopped by many local people throughout the week who were convinced we were lost! The Camino is such a dominant force in the region, and so famous throughout Spain, that the idea we were walking any other trail was unthinkable! The scallop shells in our packs probably confused matters, and instead of trying to explain our ‘wild pilgrimage’ or the GR1 and Camino Primitivo, I took to drawing a little sketch-map, which helped a bit. Every person who stopped us meant well though, but as we thanked them and waved goodbye, we could see that they were still not wholly convinced that we knew where we were going.
In fact, sometimes in Week 7, we were not even on the GR1, having decided long ago that we would not be purists for the sake of it. Sometimes the GR1 does annoying or illogical wiggles, climbing hundreds of metres up forested hillsides (for no real reward), when there is a perfectly lovely, quiet road to walk along. On such a long walk, sections of roadwalking, where there may only be one car every hour, and which may be flatter and more direct than the trail, can be very welcome. Often the road will follow the valley floor below the GR1, giving more open views, crossing rivers and passing through more interesting habitats. We don’t make a habit if it, but in Week 7, with the mist down and constant threat of rain, there seemed little point slogging up into the forest, so it allowed us to make good time and was smooth, enjoyable walking. Indeed, the roads we did walk through the Basque hills were some of the loneliest on the hike so far, winding deeply through wooded gorges and through the striking cathedral atmosphere of spring beechwoods, where the vivid pealing of birdsong echoed in the dripping stillness.
As ever, re-supply was an issue, and by Day 51 little remained of our Lidl food bonanza from Longrono. Instead of circling around the north of Miranda de Ebro on the GR1, we decided to walk directly into the city, picking-up the GR99 (Ebro River trail) to guide us in. The 7km walk did not promise much- several busy road crossings and industrial suburbs plus a slight anxiety about security when walking into a large and unknown city. But it was fine, good footpaths/ cycle paths all the way and plenty of joggers and dog walkers about. All was fine that is, until we realised there was local fiesta on and everything was shut….and the hotels nearly full. Under other circumstances a fiesta would have been great, but as tired hikers just needing to restock with food it was a real pain in the a#se. Apart from the bars, the whole city was closed-up for two days, and I had visions of us pitching our tent in the city park until we managed to bag a hotel room cancellation. In Britain we are used to (and maybe come to expect) an almost 24hr society, but in Spain things work differently…which I think is actually healthier….just not ideal for hikers who do not keep regular hours! On the GR1 we seem to have a habit of always hitting our re-supply towns on a Sunday (shops closed), Monday (shops sometimes closed), during midday siesta or, latterly, a fiesta. It all worked out OK in the end, we caught a bus to the next large town, and although it didn’t make for an efficient re-supply mission, the extra night in a hotel room with a BATH(!) was an unexpected bonus.
On Day 52 we were glad to return to the trail through dewy morning meadows and with the sound of Roe deer barking in the forest. The attractions of the town are always short-lived, and among the hub-bub of 21st century life we feel like ‘outlanders’ from another dimension. Indeed this sense of slipping into another, parallel world is a powerful aspect of long distance hiking, and one that deepens with the length of time spent on the trail. A hike like the GR1 attunes our minds and bodies to a different pace in which we notice so much more around us, and it is this depth of noticing that gives hiking its sense of substance and quality as way to live and travel. This ‘fullness’ of each day also distorts our sense of time, and when I look back at pictures from weeks 1, 2 or 3, I can scarcely believe they are part of the same trip. It is almost a feeling of vertigo, looking back to those early days, as if over the precipiece of a tall building- I cannot mentally connect the ‘now’ to ‘then’ because there is so much experience packed in to the intervening time. This feeling contrasts with back at home when days/weeks/months can sometimes pass when nothing much happens, we live on autopilot, time is shallower and less ‘full’. Hiking is a way for us to fill our time to the brim.
Our GR1 world is populated by the details that are rarely noticed; the scurry of lizards into dry leaves, the pop of warm pinecones, the glinting eye of circling griffons. These things form our daily reality and take on a significance that is overlooked by the hurrying world. So many times on remote roads we have been overtaken by people in sealed, air conditioned cars, and as their dust-pall settles we remain, plodding on in the quiet, to see what is there, to notice the things that they did not have the time or interest to stop for. I am reminded of paintings by the American painter Edward Hopper, his vivid but unsettling compositions in which he illuminates people and unguarded moments which we might not otherwise see….they give glimpses of ‘the world when no-one else is looking’. On those quiet roads and tracks along the GR1, we are left to see the unguarded world of unnoticed things while others rush on to a more important elsewheres. We have been guilty of this ourselves and will be again, and there is a conceit in this speed (not just of cars but life in general), the idea that the important things, the ‘real business of life’, lays ahead wherever we are rushing on too. But maybe, all along, in some ironic way, the answer to the big questions, to some of what we seek in all our restless motion, is to be found in something as innocuous as the grasshopper’s leap and the dry crack of its wings on a hot afternoon. I don’t mean this wholly literally of course, but maybe metaphorically these details by the road or trailside, covered in the dust of our passing, are a portal to much that we need to know and understand. Hiking ‘buys’ us the time to take more notice, to slip through a trapdoor and observe closely the world we pass through, and so offers a unique and changed perspective upon it.
Catch-up with us in Week 8 as we enter the beautiful limestone hills and gorges of lower Cantabria.
8 thoughts on “GR1 Week 7: Misty, Mysterious Basque Hills”
Dear Rebecca and Barry , What a wonderful life you’re living! We are enjoying your blogs tremendously, beautifully reflecting on the deep and powerful moments, but also a lightness of touch and humour, that reminds us of the more prosaic times of your journey. You’ll be delighted to know that Madder has procured for us two second hand Osprey rucksacks for our trip to France. All we have to do now is start our training, which in our minds we are really keen on. But nasty things like work and gardens and veggie plots and an upcoming wedding and I’ll just have one more cuppa and biscuit and prevarication, keep rearing their handsome heads. Oh well. On the brighter side, we have 4 kestrel chicks incubating in our camera owl box, which is very exciting, and we have just eaten the first of our home grown strawberries, which were the tastiest that anyone has ever eaten anywhere! Also, I don’t know if you heard, but a juvenile lammergeier was seen and filmed in Devon recently over Dartmoor very close to where Robin lives. We were visiting him at the time but were not lucky enough to spot it. Anyway, make sure you are back in Britain before 23rd June, as you may not be allowed back in the country after that date for fraternising with Johnny foreigner too much. It’s great to know that you’re both safe, well and thriving on your magnificent wild pilgrimage.
Bazza and Madder xx
Hi Rebecca and Barry!
I just got hold of your blog and it looks great. Especially since you’re now doing the GR1, which I plan to do in the fall. I will read about your adventure so far and following it further, hoping to get some good advice, tips and information that I can use when I will walk it.
I have a question though, have you come across any place where you can buy a gas canister on the trail? One gas canister won’t be enough for the whole walk. I also plan to camp, though I know I also will use available accommodation at times.
Tarjei Næss Skrede
Hi Tarjei, thanks for your comment, it is interesting to hear you are considering hiking the GR1 too. Yes, gas availability was a big question for us also.
We started from the Mediterranean end and bought gas from the large town of Figueres (there was a Repsol gas shop near the main Rambla). We bought 2 large canisters (one screw thread and one easy click) that last us about 3.5 weeks each with careful use. There was a weight penalty doing this but I didn’t know when the next gas would be so valued the security.
– We subsequently saw gas at a ferrateria (ironmongers) by the trail in Besalu as we walked West on the edge of town and in a Repsol shop in Banyoles on the main road down towards the Lidl.
– We came off-trail from Bagueste to visit the village of Rodellar (in the Sierra de Guara). Rodellar has 2 campsites with mini shops that had gas (easy click and screw thread).
As we walk West I am hoping we will find gas off-trail in Vitoria Gastiez…I can update you on anything we find over the next few weeks. Obviously the places I found gas at are not 100% reliable due to stock availability etc.
-The large Decathlon stores are a good bet also, although you would have to come off trail for them and they tend to be in out of town shopping parks.
What stove do you plan to use? The ‘easy click’ camping gas canisters are more common than the screw thread ‘coleman’ style ones. We use an MSR Pocket Rocket (screw thread) with an Edelrid cartridge adaptor (easy click) to give us flexibility. Luckily so far, with careful use, we have not run out of gas. You will obviously stand more chance of finding it in the larger towns.
Hope this helps, if I find anything more I’ll let you know. Happy to try and help with any other questions 🙂
Thanks for your answer, much appreciated.
I have both a gampinggaz stove (which I used when I hiked the GR10) and several stoves that uses the screw thread ‘coleman’ style one gas canisters as you call them. Though, I am also considering using a stove that only uses what you find on the ground as fuel (such as twigs, branches, leaves and pinecones), useful as it is very lightweight and don’t need to carry any gas, but uncertain when the weather is bad.
We also took a smaller wood burning stove on the GR11 as a back up in case we could not find gas. It was a wild wild has stove. It is a lovely and simple bit of kit, but we did not find it practical for camping and did not use it. The main problem was that the sticks and leaves etc always seemed to be damp and it was very difficult to light. We took our screwthread MSR Pocket Rocket with us plus an Edelrid cartridge adaptor (available from http://www.ultralightoutdoorgear and other sources). The adapter allowed us the use Easy click gas bottles when are thread weren’t abailable. For us this seemed to be the simplest and most reliable solution.
Happy to share the spreadsheet but it might have to wait until I get back to the UK (in about a week) as I don’t have the original file with me to update and modify.
When do you plan to start?
Great, that would be in good time for me. I hope to start some time in week 36 (after 4th September). 🙂
Hi Tarjei, Sorry it’s been a while in getting round to this, things have been a hectic since we returned from Spain. I am just updating my GR1 resupply spreadhseet with anything extra I can remember, once complete I can send a copy to you. Do you have an email address?
All the best
Hi Rebecca, no problem. I’m satisfied as long as I get before I go.
You can reach me at my gmail account: tarjei.skrede